Schooner in fog, Cutler, Maine |
Sometimes the biggest danger in cruising is the
stupidity of the captain. Like when we sailed into Cutler, Maine, and
entered the harbor in a dense fog without radar (and of course no
GPS—this was in 1985). After two days and nights of idyllic
sailing across the Bay of Maine, we reached Cutler about noon with
the fog so thick we couldn't see more than a few boat lengths in any
direction. What I should have done is contact a local fishing or
lobster boat and have them lead us into the harbor. But what I did
was station Angie on the bow, listening for the bell buoy that marked
the entrance to the harbor, and forged ahead as she directed. We
made it into the harbor, where the fog blanket ended. Looking back,
we could see the giant rocks on all sides that we had miraculously
missed foundering on. Neptune was kind to us that day.
I'm not sure I want to tell you about all of the
stupid things I've done aboard boats, but here's one that wasn't too
serious and which ended up with a good result. We were heading for an
anchorage at the Niantic Yacht Club in Connecticut, off Long Island
Sound. To get to it we had to go up the Niantic River past a railroad
trestle and through a swinging bridge. As we entered the river, I
slowed Escapade because I couldn't see around a bend of
the river to where the bridge was. Suddenly I noticed that the boat
was being swept by a stiff current toward the pilings of the railroad
trestle and we were in danger of being pinned. I gunned the engine
and we made it through the bridge, which had just swung open.
After the bridge, the river broadened out in a wide
expanse, but there was only a narrow winding channel with water deep
enough for Escapade. We proceeded up the channel with
Angie on the bow sighting the channel markers. Suddenly she indicated
that the channel made a sharp turn to the left. But directly ahead I
saw sailboats anchored and two rows of buoys leading to them. “I
think this is a short cut, I called to her. “No,” she called
back, “the channel goes this way!” But I took the short cut.
Suddenly the depthsounder plunged and the boat came to a stop. We
were aground.
OK, the drill when you go aground—especially in soft
mud like this—is to put an anchor in the dinghy, along with lots of
line, run it out in the direction you want to go, set the anchor, and
then try to pull the boat free by hauling on the anchor. It's called
kedging. I tried winching the anchor line in, while Angie gunned the
motor and swung the tiller back and forth. The boat didn't budge. A
guy came by in a canoe and offered to help. “Maybe if I hang on the
end of the boom, it will heel the boat over enough to help it break
free,” he said. “Won't hurt to try,” I answered. Then a couple
of young guys in a launch with a big outboard came up and offered to
help. I was throwing them an anchor line and securing it to the mast,
when a warden came up, his blue light flashing. He was right
inbetween us and the boat that was trying to help. “Tides going
out,” he said, helpfully. “Better just stay there until it comes
back in and you float free.” Then he took off. Wait until the
middle of the night and the next high tide was just what we didn't
want to do. So I gave the signal to our two young helpers, and they
started to pull on the line. The line stretched tight—then gave
way with a bang. Luckily I had a brand new, spare anchor line, which
I broke out to replace the old one. Again they hauled, Angie swung
the rudder back and forth, the canoeist hung from the end of the
boom, and I gunned the engine. Suddenly Escapade broke
free and shot across the channel like she had been shot out of a
slingshot. Luckily, Angie got her headed up the channel before she
went aground again on the other side.
An hour later, we were safely anchored in the yacht
club anchorage, and Angie was sitting on the cabin top fuming. She
was silent, and when Angie is silent, I know I'm in deep _____. “I
hate this place,” she said. “The only reason I'd ever want to
come back here is if you proposed to me.” I knew I was in trouble.
In a few moments I came up out of the cabin with two gin and tonics
in my hands, sat down next to her, and said, “OK, will you marry
me?” She began beating on me and yelling “Don't play with my
mind!” But I was serious. I didn't want to lose the best first
mate I was likely ever to find. And so it happens that 27 years later
we're getting ready to embark on another sailing adventure together.
Oh, and the “short cut” channel markers? They were lobster trap
buoys.
"The best first mate I was likely to find" guiding Escapade up the East River, NYC |